Hetch Hetchy Reservoir backpacking trip April 2003 -page 1
text by Amy Purdum
photos by Joe Hu
Thursday Night We headed out of the traffic-ridden valley on a partly cloudy Thursday evening. After a day of heavy rains the weather had lightened and sun was peaking through. It made for an incredible drive with spectacular views set off by extravagant cloud formations. Our goal was to reach the entrance gate to Hetch Hetchy Reservoir before the rangers close them at 9:00 pm. We stopped for gas and a quick bite in Manteca, and then continued on HWY 120 through some quaint small towns: Oakdale, Escalon, Groveland. The road traveled through lush rolling green countryside spotted with large oak trees, and then began to climb upwards into Stanislaus National Forest. As soon as we reached the higher elevations, the weather changed drastically and we were greeted by heavy rain and dense fog. Now nighttime, visibility was poor. By the time we reached Evergreen Road, which would lead us to the Hetch Hetchy gate, we knew we were going to miss our 9:00 pm cut-off. Our focus now shifted to finding a place to sleep. In complete darkness and pouring rain, we struggled to see anything. We were startled when suddenly lights appeared up ahead. An "Open" sign glowing in neon lights glowed from the window of Evergreen Lodge. We were thankful to find any sign of humans out here. Brian and Joe went in to ask about purchasing toilet paper, which we realized we forgot, and to inquire about any sleeping recommendations. I waited in the car, and all the while worried that they may never come out of the spooky-looking lodge. A few minutes later Brian appeared and signaled to me to come in and have a drink. Inside, Evergreen Lodge was warmly light and a good number of people were eating and drinking. On the walls of the lodge were old black and white pictures of a lodge and cabins long gone since the days the reservoir was built. Joe and Brian were standing at the bar talking to a young-looking man with a full and bristly beard. "You're planning on hiking in to Rancheria Falls tomorrow?" he asked. "I don't think that is a wise idea, we are expecting more than 2 feet of snow tonight." We each took a seat at the bar. Joe and Brian ordered beers and I had a surprisingly nice glass of red wine as we discussed our options. After some discouraging advice to turn back from some locals, we approached a group of off-duty park rangers who advised us to "play it by ear" - that the weather was not supposed to be as bad as expected. We decided to wait and see in the morning. We drove to a clearing off the road where the bartender suggested would be a good place to set up camp for the night. In the pouring rain, guided by the car headlights, we finally found a place to set up camp. Not ten minutes later all three of us were crowded in Joeís two-person tent taking sips of vodka out of a nalgene bottle. Brian's feet smelled terrible! After some laughs and a warm little buzz, Brian went to sleep in the car and Joe and I cuddled up to the sounds of rain hitting the tent. Friday As usual Joe and I woke up early. The sounds of rain were still beating on the tent overhead. After an hour or two of procrastinating and listening to the intensity of the rain come on and off, we decided to get moving. With Brian's help we broke camp and shoved everything into the back of Joe's Pathfinder. It was very wet, very cold and for Brian and I, very discouraging. The sign at Evergreen Lodge said closed until noon so we decided to drive to the Ranger's Station to get a report. The blonde, curly-haired ranger said she expected more of "this," referring to the continuing rain and cold temperatures. We paid the entrance fee and headed to Hetch-Hetchy's spillway so we could take a look and make up our minds what to do next : My determination was wavering as fast as Brian's. The frigid wind blew through us. We hadn't even started hiking and we were already miserably cold. The idea of going another couple of days in this weather did not sound like a good idea. Brian and I were dreaming of going somewhere warm and dry and have a couple of drinks instead. Joe's determination did not waver, and he urged us to go on with the plan despite the conditions. Brian and I were skeptical. We hopped out of the car and walked halfway across the spillway. It was very cold and wet - easy for doubt to creep in. One glimpse across the vast reservoir - to the surrounding mountains, Kolana Rock and the various waterfalls - was all it took to convince us that there was no turning back. This trip was going to happen. They jumped back into the car and headed back towards Evergreen Lodge where we could pack up with some shelter from the rain. The road to the lodge is very narrow and windy. We were startled to see a large boulder had fallen in the left hand lane, and relieved that we were not a half hour slower as it would surely have totaled Joeís truck. After the close mishap we were all intently watching the road, yet it still took us a moment to register what was in front of us as we rounded the next corner. Standing in the middle of the road, not more than 50 feet away, were four young mountain lions. When they saw us they froze. The power and graceful beauty these animals exuded is amazing. Joe stopped the car and reached for his camera, but before he could think about taking a picture, three of the lions bolted off into the woods. One brave lion stood his ground and let out a menacing growl, but after assessing the size of the truck, decided to follow his friends. Shortly after we also encountered two graceful deer who were calm enough to stop and allow us a long and admiring look. These experiences made us all very aware that we were truly out in nature and that we were the visitors in these animalís homes. In the protection of an overhang back at Evergreen lodge, we water-proofed and bear-proofed everything we could. Using garbage bags to waterproof our gear, our backpacks and ourselves. We stopped at the rangerís station to do a final check-in and have our bear canisters approved. We told the rangers about our Mountain lion sighting. They seemed genuinely surprised. Neither of them had seen more than one or two mountain lions their whole lives, much less four at once. "Will the bear protect us if we are attacked by a mountain lion?" asked Brian. This made everyone laugh and put us at ease, including the information that there has never been a bear attack at Rancheria Falls. Brian and I were more apprehensive than Joe about the possibility of encountering a bear. Neither of us had experienced sleeping outdoors with the threat of a bear invading our camp. It didnít help that in the car ride back to the lodge, all three of us shared stories we had heard of grizzly bear attacks resulting in death. The rangers gave us an overview of how to store our food and what to do if we did encounter a bear. The scariest part was when they explained what to do if a bear attacked us. Bundled up and covered in garbage bags we waived good-bye to the rangers and started on our adventure. As soon as we headed out on our 7-mile hike (from the parking lot) to Rancheria Falls the rain suddenly stopped and the sun began to peak through. We knew we made the right decision. We crossed the spillway, once again admiring the scenery laid-out across
the water. We stopped and asked a man to take a group shot of us before
our departure. He obliged and we proceeded across the dam.
|
|
